The 300 mile drive down Interstate 5 (I-5) from Portland to Ashland typically takes us 4-1/2 hours. Some people we know think it's a boring ride, but we beg to differ. The drive south up the Willamette Valley between Portland and Eugene, especially during this time of year, is mostly emerald green pastures, many with sheep and new lambs, areas of standing water, red-tailed hawks sitting on fence posts and poles watching for mice, and patches of scrubby woodland. The valley towns are clearly separated from these agricultural lands, thanks to the Oregon land use laws that prohibit urban sprawl. On a clear day, the valley is framed on both sides by the Coast Range and Cascade Mountains.
South of Eugene the highway leaves the valley and enters the foothills of the western Cascade Mountains, running through hills and valleys. After the city of Roseburg, we climb into the ancient Klamath Mountains, traversing a few passes each at about 2,000 feet elevation. The road cut shows beautiful displays of old rocks, some from an ancient sea floor, others more recent volcanic flows or sediments. We finally enter a high plateau where Medford and then Ashland come into view.
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| OSF Elizabethan Theater from the Lithia Park lower duck pond |
Animal Crackers is a stage production of the Marx Brothers movie of the same title. Groucho was there, we think being channeled by an actor who was obviously having as much fun as the rest of us. His ad libs, especially when he caught other actors flubbing (we saw a final preview), were spot on and hilarious. Add to this Chico and Harpo, and a throng of silly wealthy folks (the 1%?), and it's a laugh a minute. This is a production that, in addition to having historic value, is guaranteed to make your smile and laugh muscles ache for days.
How about some Chekhov? The OSF production of Seagull is excellent. Oh, what miserable people inhabit this play! Why can't these characters see themselves and change their expectations and behaviors? They are so self-absorbed in their own brands of misery that they fail to see the needs of those around them. Not a pretty picture of humanity, but a compelling production to see.
The White Snake is an old Chinese fable brilliantly re-told on the OSF stage. I would see this production again just for the staging; the set, lighting, costuming, props and sound are magical, which makes sense because the story is about magic. The directing and acting bring this old story to new life, and although it is set in an earlier time, the messages are very relevant today. A very old and magical white snake decides to visit the world of humans and transforms herself (and her servant the green snake) into human form. She meets, falls in love with, and marries a man. A powerful priest, himself a man of magic, gets wise to her transformation and vows to destroy her. At one point the priest says, basically, that marriage cannot be between one man and one snake - now where have I heard a line like that before? This is a magical production; don't miss it.
And then there is Master Shakespeare. I can't say how many times I've seen a production of Romeo and Juliet; and I must admit to a bit of trepidation that I would be sitting through yet another one. But true to form, OSF rarely disappoints, it grabbed and held me for almost three hours! The play is set in 1840's Alta California following the victorious grab by the United States of territories belonging to Mexico. US flags and soldiers mix with Spanish-Mexican ranching culture as the simmering conflict between two great families grinds up their young. The star-crossed lovers are, well, young and naive; but love is love, and teenage love is something else altogether. The two lovers are very believable characters who keep us focused on the simple question that the adults can't seem to comprehend, while all around them the adults and testosterone-filled boys wound and kill each other with words, gestures and sharp objects. Old Will certainly wrote a timeless tale, and OSF tells it brilliantly.
And so we're back home in Portland, with many memories of time and place and people imagined. For us, Ashland is a kind of home away from home. It's a small, friendly and very beautiful town that is perfect for walking, enjoying a variety of restaurants, browsing shops and galleries filled with interesting things, and just being. One of our favorite places to walk, sit, watch and listen is Lithia Park, through which Ashland Creek flows. We've spent many hours in this beautiful park, and never tire of it. (I've posted some photos from the park on my photo site.) Add to that the magic of live theater and, well, life is good!
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